INTERVIEW #175 KAROLINA VALIER FURTENBACH
Name: Karolina Valier Furtenbach
Occupation: Full-time student as a Visual Merchandiser and work part-time at Myrorna Second Hand
Based in: Stockholm, Sweden
Website: www.karolinafurtenbach.se
Instagram: @fraufurtenbach and @brukshuset_granebo
Hello! Welcome to A Sustainable Closet! Can you please tell us more about yourself?
I am 52 years old, married to Micke and we live with my two grown-up children in Stockholm. I also have two adult bonus children and two grandchildren, so we are a big lively family! My major interests are thrift shopping, second hand-style; both fashion and interior design, and skateboarding (yes, you can skate when you are over 50!). On my Instagram account @fraufurtenbach and @brukshuset_granebo, I want to inspire people to live more sustainably. I am a creative soul; formerly an Art Director and Graphic Designer in advertising agencies and as a freelancer. I have also worked with digital and social media communication at Tekniska Museet and CancerRehabFonden. At the moment I am studying to become a Visual Merchandiser and work part-time at a second-hand store called Myrorna. When I have my diploma as a Visual Merchandiser I aim to work both creatively and strategically with visual communication to inspire more people to shop second-hand first (feel free to contact me if you need help).
Tell us more about your relationship with clothes.
Throughout my life, clothes have played a significant role. But I have probably always followed my path when it comes to style and clothing choices (although, of course, I am influenced by trends and advertising – one can deceive oneself and believe otherwise). I have a fairly easy approach to clothes and dare to experiment a bit but during my time as an art director in the advertising industry. I was probably more of a chameleon then where I would either dress very crazy and colourful, or completely black depending on the client I was going to meet. I simply adapted to my target group depending on what I wanted to achieve, and still do to some extent. Everything communicates, even clothes of course. My look signals who I am who I want to be and what I stand for. My choice of outfit also affects how I feel or how I want to feel, it affects my self-esteem and energy level, I think that's pretty cool!
How would you describe your style?
Eclectic is probably what describes my style best. Eclectic style is most often mentioned in the interior design context, where it is about mixing furniture and interior details from different periods where you put everything together into your style. And it often includes mixing new things with old ones. I don't have a uniform style, that’s for sure. In the last ten years, my second hand-wardrobe has grown and my courage has increased over time. I like that second-hand clothing encourages my creativity, where it is more permissive to mix different styles depending on what I find. That clothing chameleon is still in me: Both and my husband Micke (@valierstil on Instagram), who shares my second-hand interest, have been listening to country music almost uncontrollably for some time now, and go to country music clubs as often as we can. And with that, a curiosity has developed around the Western style, so at the moment I like to mix Swedish folklore with classic cowboy attributes. I like to challenge myself and break norms. For example, it took a lot of courage to wear a cowboy hat for the first time. But once I put my hat on, I feel like a Queen. Maybe not on the level of Queen B herself, but good enough to make me feel extra strong and invincible – and I like it!
When did you get into sustainability?
Oh, it all started about ten years ago when I was moving into my apartment after a divorce, and I wanted to start over from scratch a bit. I bought a lot of furniture for my home at flea markets and second-hand stores, and it also became a kind of therapy for me. Luckily, my newlywed husband Micke also shares my interest in second hand and we both live by #secondhandfirst this does not only apply to large purchases: If we need a new cheese grater or an extension cord, we add it to our shopping list and look for it the next time we go to the flea market. We also try to buy gifts and Christmas presents second-hand as much as we can. Our wedding last summer was also based on #secondhandfirst. "Blue Denim" was the wedding theme where we reused second-hand jeans in every possible way for clothing, decorations and table settings. It was very inspiring and satisfying, that we were able to reduce the costs significantly by not buying new and at the same time get a very personal touch to it all. We even bought our wedding rings at two different pawnshops in Stockholm: Micke's ring is from 1960 and mine is from 1974, close to our years of birth. That pretty much sums it all up with buying second-hand: You change your mindset from perfect to "good enough" – and we are completely fine with that! In the last two years, I have also gained greater insight and knowledge about sustainable business models in my work at various second-hand hand shops. It was also by working in a second-hand shop that my interest in Visual Merchandising was awakened.
You are a Visual Merchandiser, what does that mean?
As a Visual Merchandiser, you work practically and strategically with retail communication and ensure that the brand's identity and concept are implemented visually in the stores. You are responsible for creating attractive and inspiring store environments that contribute to increased sales to achieve business goals. And you can also work more comprehensively in a communications department by developing store concepts, store layouts and guidelines as well as educating visual merchandisers who work practically with the displays so the stores are “on brand”.
How can one through Visual Merchandising work with sustainability?
Retail especially the second-hand sector faces an exciting future. By understanding how psychological factors influence customers' behaviour in value-driven shopping, visual merchandising can bring about change. Visual Merchandisers play a crucial role in creating appealing, inspiring and engaging retail environments that encourage customers to make more sustainable choices. And by incorporating signage in the displays we can educate customers about the environmental impact of their purchasing decisions.
Unfortunately, there are still prejudices surrounding second-hand; many people believe only poor people are thrifters, that it is hard to find what you are looking for, that it smells bad, is dirty and messy and that it takes too much time. Here, Visual Merchandisers can step in with their expertise, develop store concepts, and simplify for customers so they feel more confident about shopping second hand. As a Visual Merchandiser in a second-hand store, you also need to approach things differently than in regular retail. For instance, you can't create exact planograms with specific campaign products because the inventory is unique and changes daily, depending on the donated items. That requires you to be flexible, solution-focused, fast and creative, but that is exactly why I love working with visual displays in second hand-stores!
Tell us more about Granebo!
Granebo is our holiday home, approximately an hour’s drive from Stockholm. The house was built in 1919 as housing for the workers at the nearby factory. It is a large house with many original details left that we will take care of in the best possible way. When many people hysterically tear out and completely renovate their houses, we do the opposite: We want to leave as much as possible exactly as it is, and with the restorations that need to be done, we go slow – good for both wallet, health and our planet. #secondhandfirst is our philosophy at Granebo as well, and on the Instagram account @brukshuset_granebo, we inspire to creative remakes and prove that it is perfectly possible to furnish an entire house with second hand.
Best tips for people new to second-hand and thrifting?
1. Ask for help: Maybe you have a thrifting-savvy friend that you can ask to join you and seek advice from. Their expertise can enhance your thrifting journey and make it a more enjoyable and successful experience.
2. Patience is key: Second hand-stores can be overwhelming, with a wide variety of items. Take your time to browse and don't rush the process.
3. Try everything on: Sizes can vary between brands and over time. To avoid disappointment, always try on clothing before purchasing.
4. Visit regularly: Second hand-store inventory changes frequently. Visiting regularly increases your chances of finding unique items and great deals.
5. Donate items back: As you declutter or replace items, consider donating them back to second hand-stores. It helps keep the cycle of reuse and sustainability going.
And remember: Thrifting is an adventure, and the joy often comes from the unexpected treasures you discover. Keep an open mind and be willing to experiment with your style – and I promise you will be rewarded!
What do you think is needed to make the fashion industry more sustainable?
The fashion industry must take responsibility and review its business models that maintain a completely sick and unsustainable industry. They need to find new ways in which the circular economy is part of their business model, so it is included in the calculation right from the start. And we as consumers also need to take responsibility and change the way we consume. We need to buy less, start using the clothes we already have, buy second-hand and/or borrow clothes from our friends and family. We also need to take better care of our clothes so they last longer.
Anything else you want to share?
Most NGOs in Sweden like Stadsmissionen, Erikshjälpen, Red Cross, PMU, Läkarmissionen, Humana, Artikel2 and Salvation Army/Myrorna run second-hand shops where the revenue goes to charity. I have noticed that many people may be annoyed that the prices in these stores have increased, but I think we need to change our mindset around the value of second-hand. The preparation to take care of all the donated items takes a lot of time and is a costly process. Those who run these businesses also have a budget to deal with, sales targets and requirements for financial profit. But the difference is that the profit goes to charity (humanitarian work and other projects), which varies depending on the organization. Additionally, these organizations take significant social responsibility by providing people with opportunities to enter the workforce through internships and job training. Unfortunately, many consumers know too little about this, so I believe the NGOs need to communicate this even more clearly in second-hand stores to increase understanding of their work and why one might not always find super bargains on everything. And: Please be patient when shopping in these second-hand stores. Everything is not visible on the surface; here, you encounter people who are returning after a long sick leave, people with various disabilities, or other circumstances that require extra understanding and support when they work. Show consideration and be humble.